24/11/2023
What can one expect from a cold, dark rainy evening in South London? It turns out, at the cozy Lupins at 66 Union St., quite a lot. My partner and I went to the small contemporary British restaurant at 19:00 on a recent Wednesday. Open for several years now, it was full, but not overly crowded. We were greeted and seated right away in their smaller upstairs room, provided with menus, and asked if we had dined with them before. The hostess then explained that the dishes are meant to be shared and gave a recommendation on how many small and main plates we would likely need. She asked our water preference and returned with it immediately before handing us off to the server.
The server was friendly and knowledgeable; when I asked him if he could recommend a red, he suggested a lovely one and allowed us to sample the wine first. In total, we had the light Isola Augusta Pinot Noir, a balanced La Perra Gorda Mencia, and a punchy Chateau Massereau Bordeaux.
The menu on the table was different from the one on their website, suggesting that the seasonal offerings change often. Dishes come out one at a time, as they are ready, with a minimal wait time between them.
We ordered an array of plates, and everything was tasty. The Montgomery cheddar fritters were surprisingly light and creamy. The cod with bottarga, citrus and olives did not look appetising when it came out, and the combination of tangerines and green olives seemed odd. However, when eaten all together, it provided a nice little party in the mouth. Our favourite was the roasted squash that came with a creamy spelt, crispy sage, and parmesan. That was gorgeous. My partner also enjoyed his onglet with fonduta, sultana, and dandelion, as well as a plate of split peas, goats curd, and egg. We finished the meal with the ginger cake with butterscotch and cream - just right for two people. The cake was so light and moist, it was delicious.
We highly recommend Lupins. The premises are attractive and comfortable. The staff were attentive, helpful, and efficient – I noticed the hostess clear and disinfect a table for four within minutes, enabling a new party to be seated swiftly. The food was reasonably priced, made from fresh, seasonal ingredients, combined in sometimes slightly unusual, but very delicious ways.
Review by Khadija
Visit at: 66 Union Street, London, SE1 1TD
Website: www.lupinslondon.com
02/08/2023
I am greedy. I cannot look at a menu without finding eight, nine, ten pieces that I would want to order and want to eat. When invited by the Trinity Villager, there was one place above all other that we wanted to try: Berenjak.
Berenjak offers a higher end twist on traditional Persian food and, following the successes of the Soho original, has been brought to Borough Market by the JKS group who have created London dining institutions like Gymkhana, Hoppers, and Brigadiers. Berenjak follows where these restaurants have led and allows chefs to be led by modern cooking techniques with a nod to tradition.
Arriving at Berenjak, we found the ambiance of the restaurant was quite inviting, with a warm and cosy atmosphere that exuded a sense of authenticity. The staff were knowledgeable, attentive, and determined to make our meal a special occasion. We opted for the sharing plates and a large main course so that we could sample the delights that the menu offered.
The sharing plates were the highlight of our meal, offering a range of flavours and textures that showcased the richness and variety of Persian cuisine. We savoured each bite of the mezze platter, which featured delicious dips like hummus and mirza ghasemi, complemented by crispy lavash bread. The kashk-e-bademjan, a creamy aubergine dish, had a depth of flavour wrought from being cooked over charcoal was particularly outstanding and authentic. Would have gladly eaten more.
Moving on to the main course, we opted for the chelo kebab chenjeh, a traditional Persian lamb kebab served with saffron-infused rice. The kebab itself was well-seasoned and tender, the portion size was generous for a large main course, however it wasn’t the standout we were expecting and regretted not having more of the sharing plates, and some of the smaller main courses.
The dishes were visually appealing and showcased the vibrant colours and textures of Persian cuisine. However, we felt that the prices were slightly on the higher side, considering the portion sizes provided.
One aspect that left us slightly disappointed was the pacing of the meal. The service, while friendly, seemed a bit rushed at times, and we felt a bit hurried between courses. We would have appreciated a more leisurely dining experience, allowing us to savour each dish and truly immerse ourselves in the flavours.
Overall, our experience was enjoyable, and we appreciated the opportunity to explore Persian cuisine. The sharing plates offered a delightful assortment of flavours, but the main course fell a bit short in terms of portion size and taste. While we wouldn't rush back to dine here, we would still recommend Berenjak to those seeking a taste of Persian cuisine in a cosy setting.
Review by Daisy and James
Visit at: 1 Bedale Street, London, SE1 9AL
Website: www.berenjaklondon.com
04/04/2023
On a damp March evening, Brother Marcus is something of an oasis. Located in Borough Yards, it’s an eminently instagrammable space strung with fairy lights and greenery, with trailing plants woven into the ceiling and dangling from hanging baskets above your head.
It wasn’t always so. Brother Marcus first became famous as a pop-up brunch spot, located not in a tastefully terracotta restaurant, but in the empty kitchen of what was once a greasy spoon café. Such was the popularity of its Greekinspired brunches (think smoky shakshuka, harissa eggs and tahini pancakes) that it has since expanded to four central London sites, offering an all-day menu of Mediterranean mezze dishes. When we visited, we were told that two to three dishes per person was the correct quantity. In the interests of our review, we ordered a couple more, but would advise any diners to follow our lead with caution. There was a lot of food.
A note on your reviewers: we’re both vegetarian, so can’t give you a sense of the meat menu. Sorry. What we can say is that for any other meat-free diners out there, Brother Marcus does offer a good range of veggie and vegan plates – especially if, like us, you’re a fan of cheese.
Up first was a selection of three dips, which came with a generous quantity of fluffy, oildrizzled pitta. An earthy beetroot hummus came topped with thinly sliced radish, and a silky aubergine baba ghanoush had a distinct smoky kick. Our personal favourite was a deliciously cooling fennel tzatziki, spiked with Aleppo chilli.
Next up came our mains. First we had a slab of halloumi, basted in orange-infused honey and topped with crunchy toasted pumpkin seeds. Next up was the feta and labneh borek: a creamy, cheesy treat, with shattering pastry and a kick from the charred spring onion which came draped on top. Most spectacular was the Za’tar roasted cauliflower – an entire, blackened head of the stuff from which we could break off florets and crispy leaves, dipping them in the savoury spiced raisin and caper dressing.
At this point in our feasting, we were somewhat dismayed to remember that we’d also ordered chips. Of course, we didn’t regret the decision for long – they were delicious, sprinkled with oregano and a generous crumbling of feta. We finished up by sipping on mouth-puckering glasses of homemade lemonade, which cut through the savoury flavours nicely.
All in all, if you’re looking for a taste of summer, Brother Marcus is the perfect spot. We’ll certainly be returning to sample that famous brunch menu soon.
Review by residents Alice and Lucy Cairns
Visit at: 1 Dirty Lane, London, SE1 9AD
Website: www.brothermarcus.co.uk
30/11/2022
Although we arrived at the evening opening time for the restaurant, Bala Baya was already alive and in full swing. Nestled away in an alley illuminated by fairy lights close to Southwark tube station, we were quickly greeted by a member of staff who gave us a wide choice of seating options. Since it was a warm evening, we decided to sit outside, and should it get cold blankets were provided over the back of the chairs.
As a delightful introduction to our meal, I enjoyed a traditional Israeli soda ‘Gazoz’ (strawberry, rhubarb and Persian lime flavour) mixed with prosecco whilst my partner enjoyed a light Maccabee beer.
We ordered pita bread with chickpea hummus and beef tartare to start, which quickly arrived. There was a range of hummus options to choose from, ours was beautifully presented and it tasted deliciously authentic and fresh with a gentle spicy undertone. The beef tartare accompanied the grilled tones of the pita bread wonderfully with a sharp mustard taste.
Our table was cleared to receive the next dishes; squash medley, lamb dumplings and chicken with polenta. The squash medley (my personal favourite) was soft and autumnal, with a sweet cranberry zest. The chicken delivered a warmth of plum, and a crunch in your mouth softened by the polenta.
At 2-3 dishes, each accompanied by pita, it was a perfect amount, and we were keen for dessert. The burnt babka was the obvious choice for us, and it was a delightful end to our meal, with festive undertones similar to apple strudel yet with a sharp grilled flavour.
Overall, the restaurant was a delight. It is well presented and homely, with a carefully curated menu for the month of November; inviting tastes that remind of us of the colder, festive seasons, whilst still maintaining its Israeli origins at its heart.
Review by residents Kelly Tear & Max Koehring
Visit at: Arch 25, Old Union Yard Arches, 229 Union Street, SE1 0LR
Website: www.balabaya.co.uk
05/08/2022
In and around a series of restored railway arches, Borough Yards is a smart new addition to the Borough Market complex, with a cinema, shops, co-working space and restaurants. Parrillan has a sense of Mediterranean calm, as you step away from the increasingly busy market; all lush green olive trees, restored brickwork and blue and white ikat prints. Think terrace diners with Iberico pork on parrillas (mini table grills).
The waiter's technical knowledge of the food was outstanding, and the menu changes daily. We began with tomato bread, pa amb tomaquet de penjar and, the ubiquitous, padron peppers, pimientos de padron. Both were excellent; I couldn’t resist a second round of bread. The wine list is extensive and all Spanish. The waiter brought us a few Riojas to sample, the Muga is really the standout red.
Sam went for the kitchen-cooked pork, lagarto iberico a la brasa, plus a selection of memorably delicious sides, melt-in-the- mouth, slow-roasted peppers, pimientos asados, and small potatoes roasted in oil with fresh thyme and rosemary. All served in gorgeous clay and white stoneware.
I had Lemon Sole and Bull's Heart tomato salad. All our food was excellent, prepared in a large Spanish-tiled open kitchen using bundles of fresh herbs.
We finished with a lemon meringue pie, and a complimentary crema-catalana flavoured ice cream. The pie was remarkably good. Sam had a sherry. The whole restaurant, the terrace and the waiting area were packed by then.
Parrillan is a class act and an asset to Borough. The crowd is quite mixed but alike in their visible enjoyment of the restaurant. With such beautiful surroundings, kind yet technically-trained staff and food of this quality, it would be hard not to.
Claire Reilly
Visit at: 4 Dirty Lane, London, SE1 9PA
Website: www.parrillan.co.uk
09/06/2022
Any restaurant that places itself in the realms of one of London’s great culinary forums is making a large statement, intentional or otherwise. Casa do Frango, which loosely translates as "The Cock Shack" or "Chicken House", is nestled in a prime spot on the corner of Borough Market.
The entrance is a relatively small, understated door that only teases at the cavernous dining area upstairs. The main interior is striking. Large arches dominate a cavern with tall ceilings and clever lighting that creates plenty of shadow in the extremities. Combined with the painted brick finish generates the aura of the candlelit interior of a medieval castle, repurposed for modern gluttony. It was on the exciting side of intimidating, which is a phrase that probably says far too much about its author. To offer you, the enquiring and increasingly peckish reader, a more accurate and thorough review, it was important to order as much as the menu as possible. To this end, we ordered a selection of small plates from the list of starters. You might refer to this as a Mezze style approach. You may NOT refer to this as a TAP*S style approach. (Any mention of Spain, the Spanish or a Siesta is strongly discouraged).
We had a selection of prawns – in garlic and parsley – chorizo, and some delicious grilled garlic mushrooms. All were excellent; however, the mushrooms were truly standout, with an excellent firm texture giving it body and bite with none of the sliminess attributed to lesser mushroom dishes. This was fungal gastronomy of a high order, and it would be the first thing I ordered if I returned.
As for the main course, we would have been remiss to order anything other than the chicken, and gosh, it was delicious. It was cooked to perfection with crispy thin skin, yet moist, setting it apart from its high street cousin. The chicken was a triumph.
When you put chicken above the door, good chicken is best on the plate—mission success.
Portugal is England’s oldest ally. If it carries on producing poultry of this quality on these shores, I hope it always is.
Lucy & Sam.
Borough Market, 32 Southwark Street, London SE1 1TU
17/12/2020
Arriving at Bread Street Kitchen, we had high expectations, given it’s one of Gordon Ramsey’s restaurants. Walking into the open-plan floor-to-ceiling industrial space, it was decorated and beautifully lit, it’s safe to say first impressions didn’t disappoint.
Our waitress was gracious and attentive and took us through the all-day modern European-themed menu. We decided to opt for the "Beef Wellington Experience". Given that we are both foodies, we jumped at the chance, and it was the perfect autumnal evening for comfort food.
We started with a delicious Grey Goose Vodka, Aperol, lemon juice, passionfruit and Prosecco, which was light and fruity. The salt beef with piccalilli, tamarind chicken wings and tuna tartar were spectacular. The wings, in particular, are worth noting – fried in three types of flour, making them incredibly crunchy and delicious.
The absolute highlight was the main course itself. The Beef Wellington was accompanied by truffle mash and a light side salad, complemented with a bottle of 2019 Pinot Grigio Friuli.
To draw this fabulous experience to a close, we shared a trio of cheesecake, chocolate soufflé and salted caramel ice cream.
The cheesecake was whipped to perfection, and coconut ice cream with fresh pineapple and mango shavings gave a refreshing ending to this winter dish. We’d highly recommend a visit.
Written by Simon & Noel
Website:
www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com
Visit at: 47-51 Great Suffolk Street, London SE1 0BS
Hours: Monday-Saturday noon-3pm / 6pm-11pm
22/10/2020
My companion opened her attack on the Market Menu with a signature Scotch egg (accompanied by a piccalilli sauce) to die for while I started with some fine oak smoked salmon served with chopped egg and toast. I then opted for a whole sea bass with herb butter cooked en papillote accompanied by a generous serving of vegetables (carrots, cabbage and small roast potatoes), while eying with jealousy the tender and juicy roast pork belly served with Bramley apple sauce and mashed potato that Laura was tucking into with relish.
We ended an exceptional meal with a rich yet seemingly light sticky date pudding with toffee sauce and Devonshire clotted cream for me, and four prime British cheeses with chutney and biscuits for Laura. And from first to last we quaffed a fine prosecco. The service was impeccable, and the table-placements, hygiene and all Covid-related safety measures were excellent.
Tim Horsler
